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19 - 25 12 2001
The week of the 19th to the 25th of December was spent in Wadi Halfa, in the Wadi el Nil Hotel.
Truck repairs begin. Some ferries come, but none take vehicles. Try to leave Wadi Halfa but decide that Africa has more to offer than the road to London. Therefore leave the truck at Wadi Halfa in Customs compound. Customs Mudur (and all officers) very helpful and friendly.
Left the Sudan at 1530 hrs 26 12 2001 on foot.
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25.12.2001 |
Position |
Wadi Halfa
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Journey |
No movement |
Expenditure |
E Expenditure
Food: 2.500 SD
Other:
Cis Phoning: 4.600 SD
Cis trousers: 850 SD
Ticket: 2p. 2x 11.000 = 22.000 SD
Immigration: 6.000 SD
Total: 35.950 SD = $ 136.69
Of which is 'leaving Sudan' : 28.000 SD = $ 106.46 (= for 2p.)
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24.12.2001 |
Position |
Wadi Halfa
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Journey |
No movement |
Expenditure |
Food: 1.100 SD
Total: 1.100 SD = $ 4.18
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23.12.2001 |
Position |
Wadi Halfa
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Journey |
No movement |
Expenditure |
Food: 1.200 SD
Other:
cis Galibea 3 x. : 4.050 SD
Ice creams: 500 SD
Total : 5.750 SD = $ 21.86
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22.12.2001 |
Position |
Wadi Halfa
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Journey |
No movement |
Expenditure |
Food: 1.000 SD
Post: 11 x 200 SD (Photos Raf) = 2.200 SD + Cis Post = 1.200 SD = 3.400 SD
Other:
Visa Cis: 4.600 SD
Total: 9.000 SD = $ 34.22
Of which is post $ 12.92 and visa Cis is $ 17.49
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21.12.2001 |
Position |
Wadi Halfa
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Journey |
No movement |
Expenditure |
Food: 1.000 SD
Truck: 700 SD
Total 1.700 SD = $ 6.46
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20.12.2001 |
Position |
N 21 48 080 E 031 20 941 Wadi Halfa
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Journey |
No movement |
Expenditure |
Food: 1.150 SD
Total = 1.150 SD = $4.37
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19.12.2001 |
Position |
N 21 48 080 E 031 20 941 Wadi Halfa Altitude 198 m. above sea level. |
Journey |
From Desert Camp 3 to Wadi Halfa 6 kilometres. |
Weather |
Windy, desert climate: warm at noon cooling off quickly. Wind is cold. |
Terrain |
Left Desert Camp at opposite shore of Wadi Halfa. Ferry in sight.
Arrive Wadi Halfa at 08:00 hrs. am. Check in hotel, Stuart checks in for ferry and immigration to Egypt.
Wait for cargo ferry. Truck repairs begin.
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Expenditure |
Food: 1.200 SD
Truck: -
((Total for this week (19 - 25 dec.) = 15.000 SD.))
Ticket Stuart: 11.000 SD
Accomodation (19 - 25) for free = bicycle.
Total 19th.= 12.200 SD = $ 46.38
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18.12.2001 |
Position |
6 km. due south of Wadi Halfa, at Lake Nasser shores. Desert Camp. |
Journey |
From north of Kawa to desert Camp at Lake Nasser is 500 kilometres |
Weather |
Dry, cooling off at night quickly, very cold during the night. |
Terrain |
Left the friendly family. North to Argo. Nile almost always in sight. Small roads, lots of donkeys. People travelling to celebrate Eid: lots of buses. Very green, trees and fields everywhere. road slow: 40 - 50 kmph (no stops). Winding in between fields. Road north of Argo still sand, improves slightly 70 kmph. possible. Radiator fan tunnel breaks due to vibration (anti - vib. mts. fitted in 1998).Loose keys. Back door lock fails. Toolbox and food fall out. Backtrack, conduct search. Road winds through jebel and climbs - descends.
Corrugation now awful, but Bedford TJ trucks have made separate road that avoid the worst patches. Drive through night until 23:00 hrs. in Desert Camp 3, south of Wadi Halfa, at Lake Nasser.
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Expenditure |
Food: 300 SD
Petrol Argo: 5 gallons / 500 = 2.500 SD
Other:
Phones Raf: 1.800 SD
Total: 4.600 SD = $ 17.49
Of which is petrol $9.50
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17.12.2001 |
Position |
N 19 12 575 E 030 33 427 North of Kawa. Farmers' house |
Journey |
From Karima to Kawa + is 191 kilometres. Deep desert |
Weather |
Dry and very hot. Clear view. 40 C. |
Terrain |
Took on Petrol at Karima market from bermails. . Oil and sparks changed + filters etc. A gallon in Karima is 600 sd as opposed to 450 sd normally, 350 in Khartoum.
Left Karima at 11:30 hrs. with help and directions from garage man. Soft sand and black rock outcrops mixed. Bogged 3 times, used sand ladders. 2nd. and 3rd. gear, occasionally 4th. gear. After 113 km. found an oasis, at N 19 01 252 E 031 03 487 .houses deserted, much greenery. Suspect water available, no time to check.
After oasis ground became harder, much more volcanic. Some soft patches. Very deep ruts. Care needed at speed on hills.
16' tyre too thin for L/R weighing close to three tonnes. Saw no-one in the desert. Stopped north of Kawa village called at the house
of Mohammad Hussein Sheikh Ahmed Amur. A farmer. Help, food, washing, water, shelter. His kindness was beyond credibility.
Note: In general amazed that an old 2.25 petrol 110 can still cross deserts 16 years after she was built, with 200.000 miles on the engine.
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Expenditure |
Food: 800 SD
Truck: oil 3.000 SD
Petrol Karima: 39 gallons / 600 SD = 23.400 SD
Total: 27.200 SD = $ 103.42
Of which is oil $ 11.40, petrol is $ 88.97
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16.12.2001 |
Position |
N 18 32 748 E 031 50 913 Karima. Altitude 282 m. above sea level. |
Journey |
Desert Camp Two to Karima 282 kilometres |
Weather |
Dry and hot. 35 C. |
Terrain |
From desert camp all morning hard sand, slight sand patches. Jebel in distance. Went in between some jebel. Many camels. On long flat fast hard stretches 75 kmph. Very occasionally 4th. gear.
Navigation by compass. tracks clear but numerous. If tracks faded, we reversed; spotter here very useful. Morning: water and villages at :
N 18 25 306' E 032 48 289'
N 18 29 577' E 032 37 939'
Afternoon: many sandy patches. Rocky roads; twisting, slow, hard through low rock-outcrops. No risk of bogging but P.A.'s very helpful. GPS useful, BUT navigation generally conducted using compass and asking beduin. Late evening: found long dry (ish) (tributary) riverbed. Lots of people and green. Approaching Nile. Water.
Arrived Marawah, very helpful people. Marawah a hotel existed and petrol available. It is Eid. Ferry at Tengazi, by appointment (holiday). 2500 sd + 500 for felucca to organise. And 1000 sd for the old man who came along. Was a very usefull guide. We suspect he did it for the cash. Riverside beautiful palm trees. Drive along the river to Karima, past Pyramids and a big jebel to the left.
Note: Ask people in houses or vehicles for directions, not camelteers. NB camelteers are like GPS: they point to the true direction, not the road.
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Expenditure |
Food evening shop Karima: 1.000 SD
Accommodation 3p. : 3.000 SD
Other:
Ferry: 3.900 SD
Total: 7.900 SD = $ 30
Of which is food $ 3.80, acco. is $ 11.40 and other is $ 14.82
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15.12.2001 |
Position |
N 17 43 126 E 033 21 980 Desert Camp Two. Alt. 483 m. |
Journey |
From Bajarawiya to Desert Camp Two, 181 kilometres. Roads and desert |
Weather |
Hot and very dry. 35 C. Maximum 42 C. At night 20C. |
Terrain |
From Bajarawiya to Ed Damer good tarmac. Toll payment. Crossed River Nile at Ed Damer on very old landing craft. Two L/rovers max. From Ed Damer West Bank into the desert to Camp Two. Bayuda Desert. First 2 km East lush/green. Then dusty and stony desert.. Long, semi -soft sand patches. Water available 60 km. in. Place not marked. Asked locals for directions. |
Expenditure |
Tourist sword: Stuart at Bajarawiya 15.000 SD = $60.8
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14.12.2001 |
Position |
N 16 56 114 E 03 45 495 Bajarawiya. Alt. 404 m. |
Journey |
From desert camp to road 17 km. Road south to sign. From road sign to temples Mussarawat, back to road, north to Bajarawiya, west to Pyramids = total 193 kilometres. |
Weather |
Hot and very dry. Up to 40 C. |
Terrain |
From Desert Camp One to road very difficult terrain. High grass bogs, soft sand, deep holes. Road is tarmac and excellent. Track to Mussarawat from sign good, sandy track. Sometimes many tracks. but always visible, soft sand but no bogging. Road north is excellent, very fast tarmac. Camp above the pyramids on hillside. No water. |
Expenditure |
Food: 2.400 SD
Petrol: 4.365 SD
Truck: 1.000 SD
Total: 3.400 SD = $ 12
Of which food is $ 9.1
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13.12.2001 |
Position |
N 16 27 128 E 033 20 921 Desert Camp One Alt. 453 m.
Close to the temples of Mussarawat
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Journey |
From Khartoum to Desert camp one. 249.8 kilometres. |
Weather |
hotter 35 - 40 C. |
Terrain |
Left Khartoum direction north. Outskirts of the city poor. Drove to Shendi. Missed Turn off.
Tried to find Mussawarat by map and compass. Unsucsessful.
Bedouin, reasonably friendly, desert full of them.
Flat areas, volcanic rocks. Jebel to south west. Sandy patches are very soft. Bogged twice. Greenery often hides soft sand..
Notes: 2.25L/rover coped very well. Torque sufficient. Do not approach Bedouin women when unaccompanied by men.
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Expenditure |
Food: 3.100 SD
Petrol (Shendi): 8.700 SD
Accomodation Khartoum 3p. total 18.147 SD (3 x $23)
Other:
Permits 3p. 2 sites ($10): 15.780 SD
Leaflet: 300 SD
Kerosene:
Highway fee: 550 SD.
Total : 46.577 SD = $ 177
Of which is food $ 11, Petrol is $ 33, Accommodation is $69, Permits total is $60 and other is $ 3
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12.12.2001 |
Position |
N 15 36 690 E 32 32 078 Khartoum, idem. |
Journey |
No movement. Papers and Permits. The Dutch Landrover is here and leaves for Chad. Visa for Egypt. Letters from Embassies. Tour on the river. See the house of Gordon, the defending earthworks of the Mahdi. and the joining of the Blue and White Nile. |
Weather |
35 C. |
Expenditure |
Food: 11.150 SD
Other:
Taxis: 3.500 SD
Phone: 1.500 SD
Museum 3p. 150 SD
Fee guide Museum 100 SD
Shamma Camel market: 1600 SD
Knife Raf Camel market: 1.500 SD
Email: 2.100 SD
Supermarket: 2.300 SD
Total: 23.900 SD = $ 90.87
Of which food is $ 42, taxis is $ 13, tourist goodies is $12.70 and other is $22
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11.12.2001 |
Position |
N 15 36 690 E 32 32 078 Khartoum, |
Journey |
No movement. Truck at campsite |
Weather |
idem |
Terrain |
To National Museum and Camel Market, Omdurman. |
Expenditure |
Food: 8.050 SD
Other:
Taxis: 4.200 SD
Pictures Raf: 6.300 SD + 5.350 SD = 11.650 SD
Email Cis $10
Email Raf 1.600 SD.
Total 15.500 SD = $ 58.93
Of which food is $30 and other is $ 28.93
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10.12.2001 |
Position |
N 15 36 690 E 32 32 078 Khartoum. Alt. 405 m. |
Journey |
No Movement. Truck at campsite |
Weather |
Hot, as every day: 35 C. |
Terrain |
Driving through Khartoum to organise paper work / permits. |
Expenditure |
Food: 2.800 SD
Other:
Taxis: 900 SD.
Egypt embassy 3p. 18.000 SD
Registration: 4.000 SD
Leaflet: 300 SD
Copies: 1.650 SD
Email: 2.365 SD
Total: 30.015 SD = $ 114.12
Of which food is $ 10.60, Egypt visa = $ 68 and other is $ 35
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9.12.2001 |
Position |
N 15 36 690 E 32 32 078 Khartoum. Alt. 405 m Blue Nile Sailing Club |
Journey |
No Movement. Camp. Sightseeing Khartoum |
Weather |
35 C. |
Terrain |
City |
Expenditure |
Food: 14.499 SD.
Other:
Letter British Embassy Stu: 13.125 SD (=£35)
Trousers Stu: 1.500 SD
Passport photos Cis 800 SD
Copies all papers : 1.280 SD
Taxis: 4.350 SD
Bucket: 300 SD
Total: 35.854 SD. = $ 136.32
Of which food is $ 55.12, and other is $ 81
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8.12.2001 |
Position |
N 15 36 690 E 32 32 078 Khartoum. Alt. 405 m. above sealevel. |
Journey |
From Gedaref to Khartoum, 449 kilometres. |
Weather |
Hotter 35 C. |
Terrain |
Excellent tarmac. Toll payment every 500 km. People walking along the road. Lots of sand, "rondavel" huts.
High peaks in some places. After Wadi Mehdani we follow the Blue Nile, and see a vehicle ferry (landing craft).
In Khartoum we find the Blue Nile Sailing Club. Camping possible. At the Nile. |
Expenditure |
Food: 10.300 SD.
Other:
Highway fee: 550 SD
Taxi 600 SD.
Total: 11.450 SD = $ 43.53
Of which food is $ 39.16 and other is $ 4.37
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7.12.2001 |
Position |
N 14 02 514 E 035 23 331 Gedaraf. Altitude 629 m. above sealevel. |
Journey |
From Galabat to Gedaref, 168 kilometres. |
Weather |
Hot, sunny. Distant clouds, hazy horizon. |
Terrain |
Dust grey track on the left and right of murram road. The raised murram road would be excellent in wet season. Grey track shows large a number of places where large vehicles have been bogged. Map shows this road would be impassable in the wet season. Not true: the new road would be good enough.
Terrain very flat with occasional large hills… Red trees. Land very gently undulating. Road now awful.
Arrival Gedaref before sunset. Stay in good hotel. Filled Petrol: cheap. Ramadan: after sunset market + food. Very well.
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Expenditure |
Food: 6.250 SD.
Petrol: 7.750 SD
Accomodation: 3p. 3.450 SD
Border 600 SD
Total: 18.650 SD. = $ 70.91
Of which food is $23, petrol is $ 29.46 and acco. = $ 13.11
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6.12.2001 |
Position |
N 12 57 505 E 036 09 023. Gallabat, Sudan. Alt. 740 m. above sea level. |
Journey |
From Gondar to Gallabat, 211 kilometres. Much construction work going on. |
Weather |
Hot, sunny, dusty. 25 - 30 C. At night cooled off. |
Terrain |
First 90 km. out of Gondar good track. Up into green hills, after this the track deteriorates. Descend through incredible gorge scenes. Last 100 km. to border is a rolling terrain, very dusty track. Tree covered beside the road. Only three buses. Other vehicles are of road construction Company. New road under (slow) construction. Causing delay.
(0 km. from Gondar, just before the Gorges, a very large Ethiopian army base. Company strength training taking place. Heavy machine guns/Assault rifles and RPG 7s in evidence. A few villages, all seemed very calm. No sign of reputed shifta (again) . (hardly surprising considering the existence of very competent looking soldiery nearby).
Arrival Gallabat border, Ethiopian side: small river, rolling hill. River is border. Guarded by Ethiopian infantry. Border invisible. Nearly ran through. Stopped by soldier At last minute. Ethiopian customs is 38 km. (!!) before Immigration. Immigration at Gallabat is a mud hut.. Helpful officials.
Gallabat border, Sudan side: extremely friendly Arrive at Iftar. Told to return the next day. . Anglo-Egyptian Sudan customs post still intact. Police barracks in good order. Slept in tent inside Immigration compound.
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Expenditure |
Food: 43 Birr
Petrol: 250 Birr
Accomodation total 3p. 300 Birr
Other:
stamps 7.50 Birr
Total 600.50 Birr = $ 70.56
Of which petrol is $ 29 and acco. is $ 35.25
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5.12.2001 |
Position |
N 12 31 005 E 037 25 835 Gondar. |
Journey |
From Gondar to Gondar Aerodrome, airport. 49 kilometres. |
Weather |
Dry and warm,+/- 30 C. Temperature drops during the night to 18 C. |
Terrain |
Good road to Airport, tarmac. Aerodrome runway very good tarmac, terminal very small. Pick up Cisca flying in from Lalibela.
Ancillary note: Cisca Zwiers very ill with unknown disease. Hardly able to stand, much vomiting and bowel movement. Immediately despatched to competent doctor.
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Expenditure |
Food: 147.20 Birr
Other:
doctor Cisca: 21 Birr
Taxi airport cis: 30 Birr
Dep. Tax Cisca Lalibela: 10 Birr
Email Raf 45 Birr
Total: 253.20 Birr = $ 29.75
Of which food is $ 17.20 and the rest is $ 12.45
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4.12.2001 |
Position |
N 12 31 005 E 037 25 835 Gondar, no movement. Alt. 1987 m. above sea level |
Journey |
No movement. Sightseeing Gondar, castles and monastery |
Weather |
Sunny, dry. 30 C. |
Terrain |
No movement. |
Expenditure |
Raf + Stuart =
Food: 190 Birr
Truck 75 Birr
Other: 100 Birr
Total: 365 Birr = $ 42.89
Of which food is $ 22.32 and rest is $ 20.56
Cisca / Lalibela=
Food: 32.85 Birr
Other:
Guide fee 50 Birr
Total 82.85 Birr = $ 9.73
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3.12.2001 |
Position |
N 12 31 005 E 037 25 835. Gondar. Alt. 1987, at airfield. |
Journey |
Form Bahar Dar to Gondar, 209 kilometres. |
Weather |
Sunny, dry. 25 - 20 C. |
Terrain |
Leave Bahar Dar and join a rough track. Fields and arable land. 7 - 10 knocked out BTR 60's and BMP's by left side of the road. Looks like minor battle was fought here. Some BTR's have guns and detached turrets suggesting removal by force Then climb into hills, descending down towards Gondar. Join tarmac at the airport turnoff just before Gondar. Speed 80 kmph on dirt tracks, 100 kmph on tarmac. Too much dust ; need to reseal the truck.
Meeting Penny and Narinder again. exchange information.
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Expenditure |
Raf + Stuart=
Food: 111.25 Birr
Petrol: 286 Birr
Total: 397.25 Birr = $ 46.68
Of which food is $ 13.67, Petrol is $ 33.60
Cisca / Lalibela =
Food: 26 Birr
Accomodation 2 nights= 240 Birr
Other:
Entrance (all churches, 2 days) 100 Birr
Taxi airport Lalibela: 20 Birr
Departure tax Gondar: 10 Birr
Total: 396 Birr = $ 46.53
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2.12.2001 |
Position |
N11 36 257 E 037 24 152. Bahar Dar. Alt. unknown |
Journey |
From Bahar Dar to Blue Nile Falls and back to Bahar Dar, 88 kilometres. |
Weather |
Sunny, dry, hot. 28 - 30 C |
Terrain |
Dirt road to the Falls. Village next to the Falls, with offices and electricity company. Last stretch to the Falls on foot. Falls are low, little water. |
Expenditure |
Food: 111.60 Birr
Truck: 125 Birr (welding)
Accomodation: 120 Birr
Other:
entrance Nile Falls: 3p. 45 Birr
Total: 401.60 Birr = $ 47.19
Of which 111.60 B. is food = $ 13.11
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1.12.2001 |
Position |
N 11 36 257 E 037 24 152 Bahar Dar. Alt. Unknown |
Journey |
From Dejen to Bahar Dar, 270 kilometers. |
Weather |
Warm, sunny and dry. 25 - 30 C. |
Terrain |
Mediocre roads, dusty terrain. Rolling big hills. View down to Nile many times. Dropped down to a set of gorges, dividing the foothills. Crossed a Soviet (?) "Bailey" Bridge: metal good, wood bad. Speed 80 km. ph. |
Expenditure |
Food: 225.25 Birr
Accomodation 3p. 120 Birr
Total : 345.25 Birr = $ 40.56
Of which food is 225.25 Birr = $ 26.46
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