Despatches Crew Route Vehicles Reports Articles Pictures

Day 31

Return to Despatches Menu

Addis Ababa

28.11.2001

SUDAN BOUND!

Dear friends, readers, enemies and others who scan these pages, we are back on track. We are back up to strength, we have our Visas and the Weasel has almost recovered from her harrowing experience. Indeed after her re-fit at Mitchell Cotts Garage in Addis She is better than she was when she left Dar es Salaam.

Let me explain......

Two days ago another Land Rover pulled up into the Debre Damo Hotel in Addis Ababa. A rather lanky Dutchman and his delightful girlfriend stepped out and asked us who we were. It turned out that they had been searching for us for some time, they wanted company to cross the great deserts of Sudan and the west.

They could not have come at a better time. We had been at our most despondent. We had lost our other truck, who is making no effort to contact us, we had no visas, Sam could not wait any longer and had gone home and Addis, the new flower of Ethiopia, was becoming tedious.

Suddenly we had a truck, (The Dutch couple seem very easy going) to at least link up with now and again, our visas appeared, and someone in Addis Ababa showed us a kindness that brightened up our day. That person was the British Military Attaché. Tipped off by Sam, he had scanned our Website and sent me an e-mail inviting us to see the house, inside the Embassy, where Wilfred Thesiger was born.

We turned up at the 92 acre site and were escorted up to the Chancery by one of the Embassy Guards, a burly but friendly Ethiopian called Solomon. He was impeccably clad in a jet black uniform with a Union Jack on his sleeve. Atop his head, his beret was raked as though he served in Pirbright, not Addis. The British Embassy grounds were granted to the Britain by His Imperial Highness Haile Selassie in perpetuity. At some stage, a Whitehall pen pusher (who had probably never ventured further than the Costa del Sol) decided that a 95 acre forest was not: "The image Britain wanted to project". Plans had been made to sell it. Upon further investigation, it was found that Britain had no right to sell the land, only to occupy it. And thus the lush green forest compound had survived the spin doctor's knife. (One day perhaps, someone will realise that tradition and history sell, and keep British Citizens in jobs.)

The Colonel walked us around the grounds, showed us the historic buildings and politely asked us questions, he seemed genuinely interested in our Expedition. He told us of his own experiences on Ethiopian and Kenyan roads. All too soon, we had to leave. His last words were.

"I'll be monitoring your reports, if you need help send me an e-mail, I will act or re-act accordingly"

We were all quite taken by the Attaché's politeness, interest and hospitality and I managed an invite to teach him to dive at Swahili Divers before we had to dash off.

With this dose of History we felt we had to see the Ethnological museum. This was an old palace, and one of the exhibits was the bedroom of the Emperor. I found the palace as fascinating as the exhibits, but then I have always been a fan of history.

That then brings me back to today when I picked up our Sudanese Visas, collected our spare passports, and went to collect the Weasel. I leave you dear friends, in suspense as to our next exploits........

Raf