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Day 38

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Update: Bahir Dar

Day 38

3rd December. 2001

Today we managed to get rid of Cisca, she flew off to Lalibela to see the Ancient churches carved hewn from the rock. We have driven 587 miles from Addis Ababa and are about to crack on to Gondar.

In Addis, I briefly visited the good Colonel one more time. I handed over Penny and Narinder's passports, and asked him to retrieve various weapons and a radio that I had lent them. This was a sad final parting; I wasn't even able to see them. I understood why we had split, We all had jobs to go back to, Narinder and Penny were trying to spend as long as possible without getting a job again. They are and will remain close and dear friends to me, but our trip was doomed. I wish that I had the time to be able to enjoy every small part of the countries we drove through. If they read this, I wish them well.

I sent a final report, climbed into the truck and puttered off to Dejen. At last, we were rolling with a positive atmosphere. We were finally Sudan bound. We were still unsure as to whether we were going to go to Egypt or Chad, but we at least had visas for the Sudan. We climbed out of Addis and drive along a 3200m high plateau. After an hour, we descended 1200m into the Blue Nile gorge. Down and down the earth road twisted. Eventually we crossed that great river over a shoddy, communist era concrete bridge; that was guarded by the laziest filthiest soldiers in Ethiopia. Their counterparts in the South would have been ashamed of them.

The sun set and it grew cooler as we climbed up to Dejen. Here we made a night halt. The following day we left any form of Tarmac and crossed onto a dusty murram track. This took us to Bahir Dar. Our truck was old and dying, we were tired, dusty and had headaches. The Land Rover needed more attention. No matter how many times we fixed the exhaust, the road would shake the down pipe loose and it would start to bubble. (It turned out that this was because some African genius had removed the middle support.) Stuart and I nearly ended up shouting at each other over something small, but we quickly realised that this was more due to how we felt physically than anything else did. Within minutes we were working side by side simultaneously removing the carburetor and exhaust.

"That's the first barney in five weeks" said Stuart that night.

"I wouldn't even call it that" I replied. "The Cloggy, now that was a barney"

Stuart laughed. I was referring to two days previous when I had told the lanky Dutchman to stick his Land Rover up his arse. Anyone who travels will know that people get ill and tempers fray, it is how people move on and repair arguments that is important. I thought that telling one Dutchman to get stuffed in 5 weeks was quite impressive. We still have plans to meet in Gondar, and travel to Khartoum. By this time, we'll know if we get on and whether it is worth meeting again.

You now find me writing these words by Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile, sick to the stomach. I didn't use a blanket last night so now I am ridden with stomach cramps. I do not expect to find a working computer in town so this will probably be sent by post to my esteemed web site builder Gilo.

More my friends from the road to Khartoum.......